The Dismal Swamp

 We marked our arrival at mile zero of the Intracoastal Waterway on Thursday 11/6, passing through Hampton Roads then down between Norfolk and Portsmouth, VA. This is an extremely busy commercial area with many giant cargo ships and is also home to the largest naval base in the world. Navy patrol boats followed alongside as we passed aircraft carriers and destroyers. We had heard tales of other cruisers being stopped by the patrol boats for getting too close and taking photos, so we played nonchalant and powered through without taking out the camera. The night before we had heard the Coast Guard announce the enforced 500 yard security zone around Navy ships over the radio, adding that deadly force may be used if any vessel were to get too close. 

After a few miles and several bridges we made our choice at the fork in the road, turning toward the Dismal Swamp. We had been told that the alternate route through the Dismal Swamp is well worth the trip providing your draft is not too deep. Minimum controlled depth is six feet throughout the canal so we figured we would be safe enough with our five foot draft. Though it got a bit dicey at times, we assumed correctly and didn't have any issues. Once that right turn was made the scenery quickly changed from very industrial to tree-lined and secluded.

 

The Dismal Swamp route includes two locks. A new experience for us. After passing through the first lock we tied up to the free docks for the night. Everyone there was invited by the lock operator back the next morning for doughnuts and coffee and to watch the next group of boats pass through the lock. Because the ICW is made up of many narrow canals, rivers, and inlets, cruising boats converge and we were enjoying the growing trend of seeing familiar boats from previous ports popping up next to us. Flocking south together lends itself to easy comradery and we were eager to chat with any boater that wandered into our vicinity. I guess being limited to conversing only with each other is the perfect antidote for our usual shyness, but probably doesn't do anything for the awkwardness. Still, we convinced another young couple with no permanent address, Ben and Beth, to be the guinea pigs for our first attempt at entertaining on our small boat. Though I didn't think so when we bought it, I've come to realize after a scant number of visits to other boats that ours is well named with the inclusion of the word "baby."   

 

After leaving the Dismal Swamp Canal we entered the Pasquotank River on the way to Elizabeth City, NC. We wound our way down the Pasquotank on a crisp, clear morning, through what was one of the most beautiful areas we have seen so far on our trip south. And not at all dismal.

 

 

Elizabeth City was an excellent stopover point. The town is extremely accommodating to boaters, offering free dock slips and greeting every boat that pulls in. It was a beautiful weekend and the free slips quickly filled up, giving us a great opportunity to meet several more cruisers and make new friends. There also happened to be a beer festival with live bands taking place in the park right next to the slips. It seems that each time we pull in somewhere we have just missed such-and-such wonderful festival. But we timed Elizabeth City just right for free entertainment and had a great time listening to the bands play from the top deck of Mark and Laura's trawler, Osprey. In fact we had so much fun with all of the activity around us that we made it far beyond our usual bedtime of it's dark-I'm bored-lets go to sleep, staying up until a respectable midnight.